What’s my vintage bicycle worth?
You can get a rough idea of value from eBay, but you’ll find a lot of price variation that may not really be helpful. Here are some of the features that add to the value of a vintage bicycle: overall rarity; custom built or built in a small shop; built by a well respected builder; 100% original; rare and highly sought after components; good mechanical condition or at least restorable to good condition; original paint with a nice patina; original logos, head badges and tubing transfers in good condition; and custom features such as hand-crafted racks, fenders, and lighting.
Should I re-paint the frame?
Generally speaking, no. However, there are exceptions. If the finish is too far gone or if there may be frame damage that has to be repaired, then you’ll want to re-paint the frame and try to use colors and transfers to bring the frame back to its original look if you can.
When is it best to keep a bicycle 100% original and what does that mean anyway?
Bicycles have maintenance requirements just like any other other mechanical device. A bike that has had its cables, tires, tubes, and bearings replaced is simply a bike that has been well maintained over the years, and this will usually not detract from its value except in the case of very, very old bikes which are not rideable and are often best kept intact. There is a philosophical question here that I won’t try to answer, but I’ll just say that my emphasis is on bikes that are rideable, not museum pieces. Part of a vintage bike’s value to me is being able to ride it safely and comfortably. However, some bikes are so rare that they should probably not be ridden. Many vintage bikes are not particularly rare but are extremely well made and good candidates for upgrades. Often the frame material, frame and fork geometry, and lovely appearance will make for a nice platform for reinterpretation. Modern mass produced bikes do not share these characteristics. And, even a modified vintage bicycle will likely hold its value over time relative to a brand new one, and is much more likely to last through the ages.
How do I clean rust from steel components without destroying my health and the environment?
Okay, mostly I only get inquiries about the first part of the question, but since rust removal can involve the use of toxic stuff, I’ll share my bias toward hours of work using safer products. I usually use a cleaning oil such as Menotomy’s which can be used both on steel and on paint. I also use brass or copper brushes, which will not scratch steel. If a wheel or component is heavily rusted, it will take time to get the rust off, so just be patient and do not be tempted to try a product that promises to get the rust off easily and in no time at all. Some people use tin foil dipped in a bit of water as a rust remover which actually produces a chemical reaction when the aluminum oxidizes and thus also works as a polish.
What cleaning and polishing products do you use?
Greasy parts: a citrus cleaner and/or alcohol.
Paint: in stages of really bad to really good condition – a cleaning oil, an automotive paint cleaner, an automotive paint polish, an automotive wax, a quick touch up with Pledge.
Frame internals: clean threads with alcohol, remove rust if necessary (see above), finish with J.P. Weigle’s Frame Saver.
Chrome and aluminum surfaces: a wadding cleaner such as Duraglit or NevrDull. These are especially good on aluminum fenders.
How can I locate appropriate parts for my vintage bicycle?
The vintage cycling links on my blog have many vintage cycling sources for components. Sometimes, eBay is the best source for a particular item. If you would like to share a link to other sources, please send me a note. There are also many cycling forums and FB pages devoted to vintage bicycles that can be sources of components and where you can share your knowledge or ask questions.
What specialized tools and knowledge are needed when working on vintage bicycles?
You’ll want to have a basic shop already set up with a bike stand, vise, and hand tools. Beyond that you should be aware of sizing issues. Before the days of standardization, British, French, Italian and Swiss bicycles used different protocols and sizes for threading and often different sizes for axles, headtubes, bottom brackets, and steerer tubes. Sheldon Brown devoted many web posts to these topics, which really are required reading if you are going to work on vintage bicycles. Here are the most important (it’s good to print the cribsheets and post them in your shop):
Bottom bracket threads and sizing http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-bottombrackets.html
Headset threads and sizing http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-headsets.html
French bikes http://sheldonbrown.com/velos.html
More on French bikes http://sheldonbrown.com/kunich.html
Raleigh sizing and restoration http://sheldonbrown.com/raleigh26.html
Cottered cranks http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/cotters.html
Sturmey Archer http://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer.html
And, here is my blog post on the specialized tools and resources I use:
Hi, I’m restoring an old steel bike and am trying to procure a 1″ JIS threaded headset. Would appreciate your advice in this regard. Many thanks.
Hi Colin, JIS headsets have a slightly different crown race and cup size (See Sheldon’s headset cribsheet link above), so an ISO headset will not work. I believe Velo Orange carries a JIS 1 inch threaded headset. Also, eBay would be another option. Good luck with your restoration project.
A stunning website that I found by pure luck and enjoyed it immensely !
Thank you, Marty!
Hi Nola. Have you started work on the Taylor tandem ? Any interest in selling as is and what other Taylor’s do you have . I have a collection of around 26 vintage tandems here in Ashland from many countries . Marty
Hi Marty, I would love to see your collection. I will get in touch with you via email.
That would be great Nola. Two weeks ago I was very fortunate to come across a Craigslist listing here in Ashland for a complete Campy in the wooden box brand new tool kit unused for $1500.00. I got it! I was very lucky. Marty
Sent from my iPhone
HELLO NOLA PLEASE ADVISE .I HAVE A PAIR OF WOBLER RIMS WITH AFEW RUSTY EYELETS . ANY IDEAS ON REMOVING RUST AND CLEANING THEM UP THANK YOU DONAL TURNER
Hi Donal, I would probably first try a wadding polish such as NevrDull and maybe careful use of a brass or copper brush on the spoke nipples and spokes with just a soft cloth in the rims themselves. To polish the rims you could also try aluminum foil dipped in a bit of water, and that may also work well on the spokes.
THANK YOU DONAL
HELP! I am trying to replace a rear rim off my 84 Fuji touring series. The rim that came off the bike was a Michelin 16_622, R.1613. I haven’t been able to locate the same rim,and for some reason my local bike shop seems to think I have acquired some ancient alien technology, as they are of no help whatsoever. ANY ideas of a suitable replacement rim?? Or where to locate said exact rim??
Hi, I have never heard of this rim – are you actually referring to the tire? 622 is the diameter (a 700c wheel), I believe 16 refers to the rim width. At any rate, why not just use another rim that has a similar appearance? You just need to match the number of holes, whether it is drilled for presta or schrader, and the diameter.
I have rescued an old 650b Randonneur, it is badged Alcyon and has all the original French components however I can’t find and info on it and have spent endless hours trying to identify it, so I am thinking it may be something else like a Peugout. I would love to find out what it is. Any help would be much appreciated.
There is an entry on French Wikipedia about Alcyon Bicycles – a French manufacturer of both bicycles and motorcycles which started business in Paris in 1902: http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alcyon_%28entreprise%29 Their bikes won a number of races in the 1st half of the twentieth century. Then, they were acquired by Peugeot in 1954. I would guess that if your bike was made before this, that it is probably very desirable. I spotted quite a few photos of racing and rando Alycon bikes on the web. You might want to check out some French cycling forums to see if more info is available. Feel free to post a photo on my FB page – I’d love to see it. https://www.facebook.com/RestoredVintageBicycles
What color is the purple-ish bike in your heading? I just picked up a 1951 Raleigh in bad shape(26 inch wheels, caliper brakes, 6 volt DynoHub) and what is left of the paint looks like it used to be your color.
Hi Paul, that is interesting. Raleigh did use some vibrant colors back then. You can find the 1951 catalog on Sheldon Brown’s Retro Raleigh site. There is a color described as “Worcester Blue” that actually looks a bit purplish in the catalog photo. The bike in my header photo is a French mixte of unknown marquis, probably built in the early 50’s.
Hi I have a Campagnolo (Unicanitor) number M7291 with a Olympics decal on the seat support shaft, from I think 1968. It is in good condition and can be restored I think to very good condition.
1. How much would it be to restore? There are no permanent damages or “injury” to the bike
2. What would it be worth before and after restore?
To my knowledge, Campagnolo never built frames, but may have put their decals on some track frames maybe during the 60’s. So, the frame was built by someone else. As far as value, and whether or not you should restore it, you might try visiting cycling forums to see if others have a similar kind of Campagnolo branded bicycle. If it is built up with a full Campy Gruppo, that would certainly make it more desirable. Vintage bicycles that are undamaged can certainly be restored to rideable condition. Whether it is worth it to you to do so is a personal choice. There aren’t a lot of financial “home runs” when it comes to collecting and restoring bicycles, as the time, effort and cost to do the restoration will often exceed the bike’s value in the current marketplace. But, that is not to say that some rare and unusual machines will not increase in value over time, relative to the market. The biggest incentives for restoration relate to the ride quality, lack of depreciation in value, interchangeability of components, easy maintenance, and the pure pleasure of it all.
Hi Nola, I’m restoring a 1964 Raleigh Gran Sport and can’t find the 3 prong freewheel tool.
Any ideas besides ebay. Thanks for your help.
Hi Jim, I think that would be a T.D.C. freewheel. There’s only one source I of – bicycletool.com: http://www.bicycletool.com/clustertoolfortdcfreewheel.aspx
You may also be able to remove it with a Suntour 2 prong remover if this is one of those freewheels with an extra notch opposing one of the three slots. Good luck with your project!
Thanks Nola, they had it.
I have a bike from 1980, a Bruce Gordon.It’s in good shape and almost all original except for handle bar tape and stuff like that. Anyway, I need to sell it to complete another project I’m working on. The problem is I can’t find any comparable bike from that vintage to help me set the price. Do you have any ideas on where to look beside Craigslist or eBay? Thanks for your help.
Hi Pete, the Bruce Gordon would probably be very desirable to touring cyclists and other enthusiasts. Prices all all over the map, but you might find that searching internationally on eBay for custom bicycles of that era will give you a better idea about the pricing. The other option is to sell it in pieces – and you would probably make more money overall in doing so. Touring cyclists especially like to do their own build up from the frame.
Thanks Nola….I’ll start looking internationally….Great website!
I just want to say I’m enjoying your website, and plan on returning often to learn so much of this subject. I am building an F. H. Grubb from the mid-50’s, and the project is going well. Keep up the good work and thank you.
Thank you, Paul. Good luck with your project!
Can you recommend a shop in the Portland area to recover and 1960s leather bike seat? I’m restoring a Norweigian-made Kombi.
Hi Lori, I am not aware of anyone in Pdx that can repair leather saddles. However, Aaron’s Bicycle Repair in Seattle offers this service for Brooks saddles, so they may also be able to repair other saddles as well: http://www.rideyourbike.com/brookssaddlerepair.shtml Possibly, a local cobbler would also have the skill to do this. Good luck!
Thanks! I’ll come back and let you know any resource I find. I really admire your craftsmanship.
There is a member on the forum at bikeforums.net named RHM who does splendid restorations of C&V saddles; Ideale, Brooks, Wright, Mansfield, etc. Go over to bikeforums.net, go to the classic and vintage sub-forum, and tell them what you have and need, Lori.
I am in need of 700a Tires and cant find them anywhere. Does any one carry them new?
Hi Anthony, As far as I know, no one in the U.S. or Canada carries 700A tires. However, I found a set from Velogear in Australia with carries a brand by Vee Rubber. There may also be other retailers in France that carry this size.
Good afternoon, Nola,
I am putting the final touches to my F. H. Grubb Pyrennean, which consist of installing and adjusting the 4-sp gear shifter and installing a double water bottlecage on the handlebar. I am wondering if you can tell me something about the cable and barrel adjuster that goes with the Cyclo Mk 7 shifter and rear derailleur: Are they something special, or is it any old cable and barrel adjuster?
One thing that came with the kit, back in the late 50’s, was a grey cable housing, but my frame design does not call for housing, as the bare cable runs through the guide brazed on top of the B.B. shell. I do not know whether this has any bearing upon whether I need a barrel adjuster at the shifter at all. Maybe I can just run a straight cable out of the shifter and fine-tune at the rear derailleur? Thanks.
Yes. The barrel adjuster came with the shifter. I got the information I needed at Classic Lightweights. Thanks a bunch.
About four decades ago, I bought a nice six-speed Motobecane for my six-year-old son. Still have the bike, complete (if a bit dusty), but the tires are shot. Can’t locate anyone who carries 450mm x 28 mm tires and tubes. I’ll clean it up, clean and lube the bearings, and make sure the bike stays in good condition, but I gotta find the tires and tubes. Any suggestions?
Hi Rich – I think you mean 451 x 28? I thought that Schwalbe carried this tire – it’s a recumbent size but quite uncommon. But it looks like that’s been discontinued. You might try contacting an online retailer over the phone – sometimes they will have weird stuff that may not be on their website. biketiresdirect.com might be able to help. Good luck!
Have you ever heard of the West German brand NSU? I have the opportunity to buy one of their frames in very good condition. It is a Model 41 from 1948-49. I was just wondering if you had ever heard of them and if you consider them good for a 3-speed around-town restoration/conversion (from the single speed).
Hi Paul, I haven’t had any experience with NSU bicycles. There are a number of examples on the web – and a nice overview at oldbike: https://oldbike.wordpress.com/1951-nsu-damenrad/
The German company manufactured bicycles, motorbikes, and cars from the late 1800’s through 1969, when they were acquired by VW. Looks like they manufactured the full range of bicycles – from 3 speed utility bikes to higher end racing bikes. One search tip for finding info on bikes in non English speaking countries: use the word for bicycle in your search, in this case fahrrad – and then you can use a translate tool to read the page. Good luck with your project!
Thanks for the search tip, Nola. this project looks like it could be a challenge, especially from what I am hearing about German-sized bottom brackets. I’ll pop some photos your way when I get something to look at.
I originally reached your site because I was searching for information on the AD Inter10. You definitely have (had) the best looking Inter10! My father gave me his (Shimano-clad), which is in great shape, but still needs some love. I’m 31 years old, and want to do a full restoration on it. Is there a particular shop you go through to have pieces re-chrome-plated? And who would be a great person to contact for restoration help for the more complicated aspects? Perhaps yourself?
Hi Josiah, that sounds like a great bike to restore. I would not have anything re-chromed unless the chrome is so pitted or comprised as to create a safety issue. It’s very expensive to re-chrome bicycle parts, and very difficult to find a chrome plater who will do the job correctly. I don’t have anyone to recommend, but it is possible that a chrome plating shop that specializes in motorcycle parts would be your best bet if you still want to proceed. Otherwise – clean it up and enjoy the patina!
Sounds good. Yeah the original pedals are still at large, so I found a pair of Atom 700s which are in rough shape. Definitely need to be resurfaced.
Hi, I found you site here by chance and I am glad I did. I am actually trying to restore/rebuild a 60s rollfast/hawthorn and I am curious what you advise when the rims/spokes are too far gone to reuse. I am actually located in the Vancouer Washington area so if you have a shop you could recommend visiting I would greatly appreciate that as well!
I recommend checking out Dave’s Vintage Bicycles at nostalgic.net. He has a page devoted to Hawthorne/Rollfast and may be able to help with locating a wheelset replacement. If you want to restore the wheels, it takes time and patience to remove the rust, but sometimes even a heavily rusted set can be brought back to life. Steel is pretty resilient!
I am restoring a 1938 BSA Gold Vase which has a Cyclo Gear Standard rear derailleur. I am in need of the long spring which provides tension for the swing arm. Your recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Jeff, you could probably use a spring from another derailleur of that era if you can’t find an old Cyclo to use for parts. U.K. eBay might be a source for another Cyclo or possibly Hilary Stone. Springs from Simplex derailleurs would likely work as well.
My husband has an old bicycle from his uncle who was stationed in Japan in the 1950’s. He has been unable to find information on the bicycle. Some of the information we do have: There are three plates labeled “Takashimaya” on the front and rear fenders; the neck badge displays a Japanese character and “Super Cycle” within a “V” shape; the sprocket cover has an outstretched wing eagle Trade Mark and “New Model Special Bicycle” stamped into the steel; the headlight bracket has a “K” within a joined diamond pattern an “Komine” beneath. The seat has the word “Special” stamped into the leather.
Any information and gaps you might be able to fill in would really be appreciated! Thank you
HI Cheryl, I don’t recognize that Japanese marquee but I am not an expert on Japanese bicycles of that era. If you have a friend who speaks Japanese it might be helpful to ask them to do some research. And, if other readers have ideas, please weigh in.
Nola, I just happen to stumble on a Antique french Luxor carbide bicycle front lamp. Do you have any idea of the time period and what it may be worth. I have photos if you are interested I just thought it was neat so I picked it up
Hi Eric, the best way to determine value is probably eBay. Keep in mind that some components may be valued more or less highly in other countries than in the US. I like to search eBay in France, the U.K., Canada, and Italy if I am researching a particular item that may not be well understood in the US. Carbide lamps (acetylene gas) were introduced for cyclists in the late 1800’s. They were a bit dangerous and could explode! The book “Bicycle Design” by Tony Hadland and Hans-Erhard Lessing has a good discussion of early cycling lighting technology.
Hello, I have found a nice bike but wondering if the year is what I am think it is. Can you have a quick look at my page? In German though … 🙂
I looked at bikeboompeugeot.com and think it is either 1947 or 1948, but the break in the back is correct for the year as well as the locker for the front wheel however the front break is not (I think).
The paint is new, the basket in the back is missing, lights not correct, etc. …
It could be a PHL 55 Tourisme alleges or PRD Randonneur from 1947, or PH 55 or PH 65 from 1948.
I would appreciate your feedback.
Hello Uwe. It is hard to tell what you have there. The frame has been repainted, but I still see a period correct head badge and lug design as well as the rear Jeay brakes and chain stay derailleur bracket, which date the bike probably to the late 40’s to mid 50’s. The French forum Tonton Velo might be the best place to go with your photos and questions. Good luck with your project!
I have two (his & hers) Raleigh Gran Sport bicycles I bought new in 1970. The two bikes have been hanging in my garage for years and are still in impressive condition. Seems when I ride a bike it’s never on one of these:
My spouse can no longer ride hers (she only will ride her Diamondback Vital2). Anyway, I need to replace the front fork on my larger bike and it doesn’t appear the fork from her smaller frame will work. I would assume the exact part replacement is impossible to obtain at this time. Should I try to fix the bike with a new fork to ride again or consider parting with both to a collector?
Hi Jim, you may be able to find a replacement fork on eBay or at your local community used bike shop. Often such shops have a bin of used steel forks for sale. The most important measurement in addition to the axle to crown, is the steerer tube length, and the portion of the steerer tube that is threaded. It’s okay to use a fork that is slightly longer (a few mm), or that has different rake from the original, but this may have a small impact on the handling of the bike. You can also make a slightly shorter steerer work by removing spacers in the headset, or choosing a different headset with a smaller stack height. The reverse is true for a slightly taller steerer tube. Sometimes, a new steel fork is the best solution – you can also find these from Surly and other makers, and on eBay.
Well. Thanks for the details on working freewheels.
I found this site while searching out information on wobble on my 1985 Fuji League’s freewheel. This is the best collection I’ve seen outside of Sheldon Brown’s. I’ll be curious to check out the resources you have listed.
Thank you – glad the freewheel overhaul posts were helpful.
Do you know of listings of shops actually competent with vintage bikes? Salem and Corvallis area specifically.
Hello, Guy. Honestly, I do not. Maybe other readers from the valley might be able to respond. What is your specific need in terms of bike work?
General work when I am feeling like I don’t want to chance on doing damage out of ignorance or lack of skills.
HELLO NOLA MAY I ASK HAVE YOU HAD FLAT PROBLEMS FROM SPOKES WHEN USING YOUR WEIMMAN CONCAVE RIMS PLEASE AND THANK YOU
I have not had any problems with this. Have you?
hello nola in a word yes i have resorted to duct tape it works but a mess and tire fitting a strain. which rim tape do you use please include width. any ideas please and thank you don
Hi Don, I typically use Velox rim tape, but there are other products out there as well. Sometimes when I’ve had a problem with a rim causing a tire puncture, I will also use electrician’s tape on the area that is causing the problem.
Looking for a L’Eroica bike especially Italian. Any suggestions? I think i saw a Schwinn Voyager bike that you may have restored and converted to 650 and large tires at a vintage bike show. It was beautiful!
Italian bicycles – where to begin? I currently ride an early 80’s Guerciotti, and enjoyed an ALAN as well in years gone by. You can go pretty high end and spend lots of money. But that might make you happy. This link to Classic Rendezvous is a good place to start your research: http://www.classicrendezvous.com/Italy/Italy.html
Nola, I came across a Peugeot HLE ,I think it is a ph10. It is about a 1984 vintage without lugs steel frame in my size(25″) for $80.00. It is complete , original and in O.K. shape. My intent is to sort of make a Frankenbike out of this one with some Gentleman 700c wheels laced to early Sunshine hubs( eliminating the heliomatic and 27″ ) . then finish it off with Campagnolo record shifters and derailleurs. The french handlebars are nice and light as well as the stem, and I like the Mundialita saddle. I would never do this to my Stella or early Motobecane, but this one is a little rough and fairly new in years. Thoughts? Joe
Hi Joe – your Peugeot sounds like its an internally brazed HLE frame. Internal brazing is kind of hard to imagine, but Peugeot perfected this technique. HLE tubing was lighter and stronger than Carbolite 103, and the lugless process makes for less weight as well. These Peugeot bikes were ubiquitous in the 1980’s but also perfectly decent. I wouldn’t hesitate to modify it the way you have described – it sounds kind of fun!
Hi Nola,just came across this great web and your vintage dynamo post.Restoring now Peugeot Mixte and got problem with its Soubitez dynamo,can’t put together its spring mechanisem.Any chance you know where to find info or picture how its build and make it working again.Best regards,
Hi Tom, it sounds like the problem is with the spring that allows the dynamo to rest against the tire’s sidewall, and not with the dynamo mechanism itself. I would suggest just replacing the dynamo as they are easily found on eBay and other sites for a very reasonable price. If you want to disassemble the clamp/spring mechanism that’s another option but may not be worth the effort, as finding replacement parts can be difficult.
Hi Nola, I am just in the process of restoring an old Peugeot from the hand build era. As many bikes in my city are stolen I want to insure my bike but it’s quite difficult to estimate the value. Can you help me?
Btw love your content it really helped!
Hi Lewis, as noted on my site, I do not provide value estimates. Good luck with your project.
Are there vintage bicycle interest groups who may accept donations? I’m doing estate planning and would like my stuff to go to someone who has a real interest or at least cares.
My main bike of concern is a 1985 League Fuji I picked up in 2000 from a local shop that had a rack that looked like a 1985 Fuji catalog. I made two minor modifications in gearing. Very nice shape overall.
I also have an American Flyer Jewel Gran Sport that has been my commuter in the early and mid 70s and done a couple of metric centuries in the 80s or 90s. Will be my grocery bike.
Guy, that is an interesting question and one that many “older” cyclists are pondering. Monetizing a collection of vintage bicycles is a challenging task, given the low value assigned to them via Craigslist and eBay. There is also the desire to preserve vintage bicycles for historical and cultural reasons. Very few qualified appraisers exist who can properly value a vintage bicycle. So, one solution is to donate less rare vintage bicycles to one’s local community cycling organization. Such bicycles are either refurbished and sold to customers, or used in the organiztion’s programs to bring new riders on board and to reach out to communities which have not been well served by the cycling industry.
This is a great site! Thank you. So, I have a 1991 Bridgestone mountain bike (I believe it’s MB4) that I got for my 18th birthday from my parents. I’m considering spending some money and giving it a facelift–new seat, handlebars, some new components. Haven’t done much to it in all those years. You think its worth it to invest in this bike? Does it count as vintage by your criteria and thus have the qualities that you admire in older bikes? And if so, what do you think are the most important things to consider. I don’t know a huge amount about bikes but I like them and have a fondness for this one. I’m living in Montreal at the moment, by the way. Thanks for your thoughts and knowledge.
Your 1991 Bridgestone is likely to be well worth upgrading so that you can enjoy it. The value is not just in the cost to upgrade but in the utility (and joy) it will provide to you and to your family over the years. It’s always a great choice to overhaul and existing bike rather than buy something new. No new carbon footprint, and a wonderful bike to pass on to future generations.
Thank you! There is something wonderful about having the same bike for years etc. My brother rides my father’s Raleigh, which now must be near 50 years old. I’m going to update that Bridgestone! Suggestions welcome.
I’ve been following your blog for some time.
You may recall I have a tiny 1989 Terry mt Marcy that I have overhauled and made into a city commuter bike. I posted some photos a years or two ago on your FB.
I am wondering if you would be interested in upgrading and old Centurian racing bike that my partner owns. Im not sure if this is within your scope of business, but I trust and appreciate the work you do. The idea would be to tune it up, upgrade some components, and
hybridize it with swept back bars, fenders (if possible with the break clearance.)
Let me know if you’re up for it.
Hi Sabina, due to the high cost of shipping, your partner would likely be much better off finding someone local (maybe you??) to do the modifications. Sounds like a fun project.
We live in Portland, so we’re local.
hello nola pro am hubs my Harry quinn is bike of the month july 2019 old velos . showing pro am hubs 0n concave 124 rims . not bad for 49 yr. old hubs . and may i repeat we missed you thank you don
Thanks, Don. Nice bike you have there.
Hi, are you able to supply a link to a supplier of alloy lugs for an Alan, regards Barry .
Hi Barry, the company is still in business so contacting them would be your best bet.
Thank you for a great site. I agree that high end vintage bikes were in general better built than modern bikes, and that many of the components pre-c.1985 are better constructed and more durable than their modern counterparts. I regret selling my late 1970s & early 1980s custom built touring bikes with their SunTour, Shimano, Campagnolo, Sugino, MAFAC & OFMEGA parts. And I definitely bridle at having to throw away expensive brifters &c when they wear out quickly.
After a couple of years in the carbon bike wilderness, I’m having a custom steel frame built. Actually, my carbon bike rode beautifully, but it was a pain to work on and it was fragile. Note the “was”. In any case, my new bike will have braze on Herse/Compass centre pull brakes. It’s been more than forty years since I had centre pulls and while I remember them with affection I can’t recall how I adjusted them.
I read your post on adjusting c/p’s with interest. Jan Heine opines that straddle cable length & yoke height make no difference to c/p performance. You state that “a wider angle at the yoke [is] more advantageous”. I understand this to mean that a shorter straddle cable & hence a shorter distance between the yoke and the top of the brake arms is better than longer. Have I understood you correctly? Your opinion, I must say, intuitively makes better sense to me.
If there *is* little difference in braking power, is there a difference in feel? Finally, in your experience, do shorter pull or longer pull levers (I’m never sure which of these is a high or low mechanical advantage lever, so I’ll talk in terms of pull length) work better—ie., stop quicker—with MAFAC Raid and Herse brakes?
I hope these questions are not onerous to answer. If they are, thanks anyway.
All the best.
Well…I’m not trained as an engineer so I’m relying on other experts. Sheldon Brown states that the length of the straddle cable for centerpull brakes does affect the brake’s performance, but in the opposite way of cantilevers. I have surmised that this is because centerpull brakes have transversing arms, whereas cantis do not.
I have mixed and matched levers and brake calipers that were not meant to go together, and the result is that the brakes sometimes do not perform as well as desired. I have some long pull levers on my ALAN, which are mated to its original Dura Ace calipers. The brakes work okay, but require more hand strength. However, I’ve gotten used to this.
wonderful web site!!
can you suggest where I should sell a vintage soubitez nr3 generator new from the 70’s?
I would rather sell it to the vintage bike community than simply on ebay where the prices vary widely from $50.00 and up
Thanks, Carl. You might try the Classic and Vintage group at the Bike Forums Site. Otherwise consider listing it on eBay and making it visible to international buyers.
thank you for the repsonse!
I wrote to you on I think the 15th December but have not had a reply nor has my letter appeared here on your website so wonder if you received it. ? I was asking about my 1958 ( only three built ) Racing Bike that I have owned all this time but in particular I was asking about my JUY Simplex gears and if you were able to tell me what model I might have so I can source the correct parts. The bike is worth restoring I believe.
Hi Barry, if you are looking for info on Simplex Juy, disraeligears.co.uk has extensive photos, documents and tech manuals for most vintage derailleurs. Hopefully you can find your model info there. What is the custom bike you are restoring?
I have just done an extensive reply to you but when I went to post it I had to log in which I tried to do and the page disappeared and did not appear on your reply list so I do not know what happened. Hopefully you have received it but if not I will try again. Obviously I am doing something wrong but did get the note to you on the 20th December.
Thanks Barry Peterkin ( mechanical things are my forte not computers ! )
Didn’t receive it.
Here is another try.
I have owned my bike for over 60 years but have not ridden it since about 1962. I have had it stored over the years but not in ideal conditions so it is looking somewhat sad but is eminently restoreable. It was one of three especially built for a 1958 race here in Perth, Western Australia by a reputable low volume bicycle builder here in W.A.. ( Mortlocks ). It is called in full ” The Royal Greyhound ” or Greyhound for short.
The other two bikes apparently went to overseas buyers so mine is the only one in Australia and most likely the only one still in existance. It was built as a racing bike and had quality components including the Simplex Gears. They are close ratio 16, 17, 18, 19 teeth with only one front large gear of 48 teeth so ratios are 3, 2.82, 2.66, and 2.52.
On the main outer bar it has JUY Simplex and underneath it has “RUSGOG ” . However the S could ber a 9 and the O could be a D. It is hard to read. On looking at photo’s it looks like a Simplex TdeF model but is also similar to a JUY-51 and the 303 Tourist. however I cannot see any similar code (if that is what it is on others ) Do you have any information that would help to decifer this “code’ ?
I could send you a couple of photo’s to assist in the ID but would presumable need an email address to do so and that is not on your website.
My bike seems to fit your definition of a very worthwhile bike to restore and as I have had it sine I was 14 it would be nice to restore and maybe pass on to a grandchild. I have been a vintage car restorer (well still am ) so restoration is no problem. I still win awards for the last car I restored finished in 2007 ( it is a 1930 Chrysler Royal six wheel equiped sedan )
Hope you can give some guidance and maybe help ID the gears so I know what model parts I should be looking for.
Thanks Barry Peterkin
The B TE SGDG is a French designation used at the time which sort of translates to “patent pending” as used under US law. Under French patent law prior to 1968 the legal significance was that a patent was granted by the government but with no government assurances that the item actually functioned as described.
Without seeing photos I wouldn’t know what model Simplex derailleur you have but assuming you aren’t replacing it, you can use whatever specs are available for any similar model. Sounds like it operates with a pull chain? If so, there is some good info here http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/simplex_adjustment.html
Thank you for replying at a busy time of the year.
From what you are saying about ” B TE SGDG ” it is not a code that would only appear on one model but could have appeared on several models so does not help me identify my Simplex Gears.
I would be happy to send you some photo’s that you might be able to identify the model. If you are ok on that might you reply direct to my email address and I can then forward the photo’s.
The other thing I would like your opinion on is on the brakes. They are ” Monitor Ventura “. Would you know if they were a good make and from which country ? English, French, Italian or even USA ? I have seen these brakes fitted to a Racing Bike made in 1936 so presumably were around for some time.
Thanks Barry Peterkin
Further to my successful post on the 23rd ( on a roll here ! ) I now believe that the “code ” on the gears is most likely ” B TE SGDG ” with the TE in smaller letters.
The other point is under the frame where the main shaft fits there is an embossed “480 ” which I assume is a frame type as well as a stamed “1 ” which fits with my belief that this bike was one of three only. Nice to have number 1 anyway.
So maybe that clarification will make it easier to ID the Simplex model. Here’s hoping !
Thanks and merry Christmas and a happy new year.
I own two vintage bikes. A 1965 Anquetil with Durifort tubing, a 1975 Alan Super Record. I need a replacement fork for the Alan due to a steering tube crack. Any possibilities of finding one or a suitable substitute?
You should be able to find a replacement on eBay, with patience. You’ll need to match the steerer tube length. Check Italy and France eBay as well.
I’m new to vintage bicycles. I’ve acquired a bike recently and I’m attempting to restore it for my wife. It is almost identical to the Peugeot Mixte 650b you restored a few years ago. I cannot sort what the tire size is. Someone converted it to a single speed at some point so the rims might not be original, but they look it. Front tire sidewall is degraded and nothing can be read. Rear tire is a “made in France” Dunlop white-wall with the following markings
“26 x 1 1/2 x 1 3/8” and “380”.
I’m not interested in getting it back to factory finish on my first go around with a vintage bike, but I would like to get her riding on it. Any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Michael, your tire size is 650b. The “380” could be a reference to the width, but perhaps it’s a faded “584”? Sheldon Brown’s site has a good tire size chart. Sounds like a fun project!
I have recently acquired a wheel with a Suntour New winner which looks to be in good order from what I can tell. I’ve cleaned it, degreased and lubricated by injecting in chainsaw oil. I’d like to service it further and as the bearings are still a little audible possibly adjust the bearings but i don’t have the special Suntour New Winner Tool.
Do you have any suggestions?
If you can’t find someone to borrow from then eBay and patience should land you one eventually. It’s probably the pawls making noise. They might be worn if the derailleur wasn’t kept lubricated. Normally ST free wheels are louder than their competitors but in a pleasant way.
Hey there, love your collection. Wondering if you can share some knowledge with me. I recently saved from the trash and re-built a ’93 Specialized Sequoia with the intention of selling it, but now I like it too much and must keep it. It has the rare and elusive behind the seat tube dt shifter mount post, and I would like to employ it now that the bike is staying with me (it found a slot in my stable between my road bike and touring bike). What I’m trying to determine, having not made any attempts yet, is whether the stock triple bottom pull derailleur will work, or do I need a top pull? And, do I need to use a REAR dt shifter to get the correct cable pull direction? It looks to me that the cable needs to start on the non drive side, hook over the top of the shifter, and down the drive side to the derailleur, so as to pull the derailleur arm up, with the shifter starting at 12 oclock and moving counter clockwise to roughly 5 oclock to get from smallest to biggest ring? Does that make sense? Any insight is appreciated. Cheers from Toronto.
Hi Matthew. I think you are referring to the seat tube braze on for the shifter which would control a bottom bracket mounted dynamo. It’s not meant to be used for the front derailleur. The bike should also have two down tube braze ones for the front and rear derailleur. I don’t know what year your bike is, but the older models came with higher end components which I would keep original to the bike if they are in good working order.
Yes, that is the braze on I am talking about. The bike of course does have the original traditionally placed braze ons, which I am currently employing with the original shifters. I managed to use almost all the original parts that I found with the bike, except for the ones that weren’t there. I had no idea a bottom bracket mounted dynamo was a thing, interesting. I just found your post about the dynamo braze on your Meral, and I understand better now. I was riding around on the bikes maiden voyage the other day fantasizing about how cool it would be to have a bar con for my rear mech, and a behind the seat tube shifter for the much less used front mech. One can dream. I appreciate your reply.
I have a 1976 M. YVars rode bike with Mafac racers. The rear brake will not release after releasing the lever. I have tightened the cable at the brake but there is a lot of slack at the lever. How do you remove the lever and hood and what cable will work to replace this? Thanks
I would remove the cable and then see if the lever itself moves freely on its hinges. If not, then something is interfering, possibly the position of the hoods could impede movement. If the levers do move freely then I would inspect the housing for damage or kinks and replace as necessary. If the cable is kinked it would also need to be replaced. The hoods can be removed but you may not need to do so.
The lever moves freely with lots of slack at it. The issue is the brake will not release from the rim after letting go of the lever. Both springs are in place on the brake. When you push the brake shoes apart from the rim, they will close when you squeeze the lever. Must be an issue in the cable not releasing back.
You shouldn’t have to push the calipers apart from the rim so it sounds like the problem is with the brake calipers and not the cable.
Hello, I am currently restoring a 1978 Schwinn Le Tour III, But got sidetracked when I found a 1953 Peugeot on fb marketplace. It is all original except for the seat and the front wheel. My problem is, I can’t find any information about the model or anything else for that matter. I am sure you are full of information, and hope you could share with me on this restoration.
Hi Robert, there are several sites on the web that have the French Peugeot bicycle catalogs for that year. You should be able to compare the frame design and components to get an idea of which model it is. Sometimes the serial number also has a letter preceding it which could be another clue as to which model.
A wonderful site! I too came across by accident. I am wondering if you sell parts for old bikes? I recently acquired a 1971 Peugeot PSNM 40 Nouveau Style folding bike. It is missing it’s rear light bezel and lens. The bike is otherwise original, although the Dynohub is missing (tons of those available here from myriad bicycles). Do you have or know where I might find such an item?
Thanks and happy riding!
Hi Christopher, finding the exact match for the rear light could be challenging and you might want to replace the whole unit with a similar design from the same era. Searching French eBay can prove fruitful.
I have a pair of Olmo rims with Campy quick releases. The bikes are gone but I’d love to get these to someone who might want them. Any ideas?
It’s still best to use eBay to sell higher end components. But it is expensive to ship wheels so you might try locally first, or consider donating them to you local Community Cycling nonprofit.
Hi! Love the site!
I have an old (1978) steel bike that I do *not* want to repaint. On the other hand, it really needs some touching up or it is going to rust.
Do you have any suggestions for what kind of paint to use and how to match the color (it is a brilliant orange). … or, perhaps, an enterprise that would do it for me?
I love the bike and would hate to have it go before I do ;-P
If you just want to touch it up you can sand the bad spots down to bare steel, then use a primer coat, then use Testers paints. I’ve been able to mix colors and come up with a reasonable proximity to the original color. Often, though, I just sand and use the clear paint so I can keep an eye on troubling areas. Motorcycle shops are also often set up for frame painting and may be able to get you the right color match.
Auto paint supply shops are normally good at matching paint. I had some paint matched on my ‘83 Lotus and it came out perfect.
i just bought a 1970’s peugeot mixte bike frame from spain, i’m in desperate need of some help with sizes nd dimensions of different components i need. it’s just the frame and the fork and quill that i bought and bottom bracket but need some guidance and assist. i thought it would be a fun winter project, little did i know what i was getting myself into.
thanks for any insight
You’ll find lots of guidance on my site, at Sheldon Brown’s site, and from various bike forums. Good luck!
I have a Bike Nashbar Toure XC circa 1986 or 87. I only rode for 1 year and stored it. I brought it out last fall and put new tires and new handlebar tape and looks sensational. Unfortunately, I realize it is too big for me. I believe it is a 48cm. I would like to replace it with a smaller version and sell this one. Any suggestions on how I should sell and if they even made a smaller size? Mostly the handlebars are too far away. I wouldn’t mind something that would accommodate 32mm tires for trail riding. Like to stick with steel.
That’s a very desirable bike in a desirable size being the smallest size made. It sounds like you want a bike that uses smaller wheels so that the top tube length is appropriate. If you decide to keep it you could try a different bar set up with shorter reach taller stem and upright bars.
This might be an interesting question.
We have a vintage bike that has not brand markings. Ladies, 3 speed, 26″ tires. No fenders. We are trying to find the maker, and a year, if possible.
It has a head badge emblem of “Conqueror”. Trying to do searches online, but nothing comes up. Maybe it’s a rare bike.
The center of the handle bars has “Brampton” and “Made in India”. (NOT BrOmpton)
The front wheel wing nut has “Luxe” and “Marcel” or Marcal. (luxembourg?)
The wheel hub has no apparent markings.
Any idea about this bike??
Thank you for your help!!
I believe Brampton was a U.K. component maker, perhaps with manufacturing in India. I haven’t heard of the Conquerer marquee. You might try some of the bike forums to see if someone can identity it.
Hi, Thanks for your reply.
Yes some parts are marked as made elsewhere. A wheel wingnut is marked “Marcel” “Luxe”, grip is made in England. The badge has name of Conqueror, over a globe image. But it is strange that there are no other markings of the brand….unless painted over.
I’ll look for a bike forum. Thanks again!
Hello, I recently found a Raleigh Sport which I believe to be a 1955 from date on rear Sturmey Archer hub. It is in quite good condition. Has what i assume is original Brooks B72 saddle in excellent shape, original Raleigh saddlebag. 3 speed Sturmey Archer shifter mounted upside down which i have read was mid 50’s anomaly. Stickers, emblems all in place. As I am only learning about this bike via internet and not a bike expert I cant be sure but it all seems original. The tires are dunlop sports that just say “inflate hard”. I am doing a cautious cleaning. Slight surface rust on chrome coming clean and paint is in exceptional condition. It is a beautiful bike and rides nicely. Unfortunately it is very large for me. I would like to sell this bike but have no idea how to value it. Cant find anything close online to compare. Can you give me any guidance? I live in the Chicago area. Im really enjoying your site and could see how easy it may be to get hooked on vintage! Thanks. Teri
Hi Teri, I don’t give pricing advice. The best thing to do is check eBay and Craigslist. UK eBay might be most helpful. Bike forums are also helpful. Honestly unless it is a rarer model, vintage 3 speed Raleighs don’t have high monetary value. The most value is in the riding and enjoyment of these fine old bikes. You may even want to gift it on or donate to your local cycling nonprofit.
I have a 1999 Terry Symmetry that I know I will not be riding again. I used the bike a lot for about 10 years and loved it. I am not looking to receive money for it. I just want to see it going to someone who would use it. Nobody around here even knows what a Terry bike is. Do you accept donations of bikes to restore?
Hi Harriett. Thanks for the offer of your bike. I’m thinning out my collection but you could donate your bike to your nearby community cycling organization. That way the bike goes to a good cause.
Hi, I have a 1975 Motobecane Nobly. It’s equipped with a Soubitez generator, and I saw your blog post about rewiring dynamo lighting. I was wondering what lightbulbs did you use and if you could share the resources you used for the project? Thanks!
You will need the existing bulb to find a replacement. Since it’s French the threading might not match what you can find from a hardware store. In that case you may need to look on eBay. You can also replace the headlamp shell with one that has an existing bulb.
Hi, I’m restoring a 1983 Vitus 979 and having issues with the downtube shifter bosses. the flat sections at the end of the boss are orientated perpendicular to the downtube rather than parallel as is the normal fashion. When I instal the Shimano 9 speed shifters the lever orientation causes them to foul the front wheel
I’ve spent an age trawling the web for an answer but can’t find any reference to this, am I missing something and what sort of lever would work?
Not all shifter bosses are the same. Shimano had an oddball one in its line up for a brief period and Campagnolo bosses may be different yet. It sounds like yours are oriented so that the shifters are not parallel to the downtube when they are at rest. Your best bet will be to use the originals or at least something from the same manufacturer. Also, the inner piece on the shifters that has the tabs can sometimes reoriented or you could try a different set of these from another pair to see if they will work.
I have a vintage Hiawatha women’s bike (not sure of year, but it has a tank and a solid rack over the rear fender) that I’m looking to have restored. Is there a shop in Portland or nearby that you’d recommend? Thanks.
Hi Samantha, if you want to just get it in rideable condition you could probably take it to any LBS in Portland but you’d want to make sure they have access to parts and that you give them clear guidelines as to what you want done. There are also lots of hobbyists who might take it on and possibly do a better and quicker job. You can try contacting various bikes forums. Be sure to include photos when you interface with the forums so that readers can see what you have and what might be involved in working on the bike. Good luck!
Hi Nola, what an incredible source of vintage bicycle information you are, thank you for sharing. I have a late 1950s Dilecta French tandem bicycle with a French cyclo derailer. Trying to identify whether it’s a four-speed or a five speed.
The number on it says Cyclo Randonneur 6v- 2.38
I’ve scoured the Internet to no avail, if you have any thoughts or help I would greatly appreciate it, thank you
I’m in the throws of restoring (trying) an 1890 Lovell Diamond Safety and am looking for some pedals for it. Was wondering if you have a pedal pile around your shop that might have some oldies sitting there. Thanks for maintaining a great site.
Wow. That’s an old bike! I don’t know if threading was standardized at the point in history so don’t know what would fit. You’d want to measure the threads with a thread gauge to determine what would work. If a standard size you could check your LBS parts bins or search eBay. Good luck!
Hello, thanks for such an informative site. I’m hoping to restore a Hobbs of Barbican frame from c1945. Please can you suggest the best hub from this era for fixed/single speed and that has replacement bearings available? Any info gratefully received
Congrats on the nice frame which would have been among the first produced after resuming production post WWII. Bayliss Wiley hubs were often used on these bikes. You might try Classic Lightweights as a good place to start your research.