A Slow Ride on Sauvie Island

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In my youth, I often rode my bicycle with no particular destination or purpose in mind.  I never tracked my average speed and never worried about how many miles I covered. Even on my touring rides, I would rarely attempt an all out effort – 4 or 5 hours in the saddle at a reasonable pace while touring was plenty for me.  In fact, this way of riding was so normal for me, that I was not even aware that it wasn’t how you are “supposed” to ride.

Now, some decades later I find myself returning to that natural sense of wonder and peace that a slow and meandering bike ride can provide.  Sights, smells, and sounds are all  uniquely experienced while riding.

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Sauvie Island, about 10 miles from Portland, is an amazing place.  There is a basic loop that’s about 13 miles, totally flat, and there are side excursions that can be added and explored.  Many cyclists ride to Sauvie Island from Portland, make the 13 mile loop, then ride back, giving them 33 miles or so.  Since I was doing a low mileage day I decided to drive my bike to the island and begin the loop counter clockwise.  There are a few nice stops along the way, but my favorite is the Pumpkin Patch – a place with something for everyone, including a cafe, store, fresh produce, a petting barn for kids, and best of all – decent bathrooms.

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It was a hot day, so taking it slow on my Meral 650b turned out to be just right.  I’ve put enough miles on this fresh build that it’s almost time for the bike’s first tune-up.  I was passed by many riders in pace lines, and was greeted by no one except a group of women cyclists going the other way, and a few lone riders dressed in “normal” clothes.  There is no shoulder, but all cars I encountered gave me plenty of room.  That was nice.

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Along the way, there are Llamas (or Alpacas?), cows and horses grazing, beautiful fields of grain, corn and vegetable crops.

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While riding, my bike developed a few unpleasant noises.  The rear fender began to rattle, and the rear derailleur began to squeak!  Then, I became acutely aware of the fact that I need to use a front derailleur designed for a triple crank, not the Ultegra derailleur I am currently using (not designed for a triple).  Also, I could never really find my cruising gear, which I think is best when it is located on the big chain ring.  This is the gear that I define as providing a comfortable cadence on a totally flat surface.

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Part of the trouble is this 48/40/26 T.A. triple crank.  The 8 tooth difference between the middle and large chainrings means much more front shifting than I normally do.  Rather than replace the chainrings, I am planning on ordering a custom cassette.

But hey, I am getting off track here…

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If you take a side trip off Oak Island Road, and travel about 4 miles, you’ll come to a trailhead and parking lot. Once you are off the main road, you’ll encounter very little traffic. The last mile is gravel – hooray for 650b tires! From there you can take a 2.5 mile hike.  It was nice to be wearing regular shoes and another good reminder that not every ride is a race, so there’s no need to dress like it is.  On the hike, you’ll get a view of a number of different lakes, which draw canoists and birders.  You’ll also see Mt. St. Helen’s in the distance.

The last part of my trip involved the brief time on Sauvie Island Road – the busiest leg and most stressful part of the trip, relatively speaking.  Returning home in my car, I feel relaxed and ready to go back to work.

Setting Up a Simplex Tour de France Rear Derailleur

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If you’ve never encountered a Simplex Tour de France rear derailleur (first introduced in 1947), you would be among the majority.  Even experienced mechanics can be flummoxed by these plunger/push-rod designs, as they bear little resemblance to modern derailleurs.  Founded by Lucien Juy in 1928, Simplex gained prestige and market share by developing and perfecting a rear derailleur which properly tensioned the chain regardless of which gear the rider was using.  This breakthrough translated into 100’s of prestigious races won in the 1930’s with bikes equipped with the Simplex derailleurs.  In 1936, Simplex was the first company to introduce a 5 speed rear derailleur – a breakthrough which lasted until the late 70’s.

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Fortunately, the technical manuals have survived, and there are internet resources to help – the most valuable one being at my favorite U.K. website – Classic Lightweights.  However, if you don’t speak British, some elements of the setup will be mysterious, at best.

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One of the most puzzling aspects of this derailleur is the chain routing.  The photo at the left depicts the WRONG chain routing.  The photo at the right depicts the CORRECT chain routing.  It’s important to carefully study the drawing in the technical manual to make sure you’ve got the chain routed correctly.

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There are two tensioning mechanisms in the derailleur – something which is true of all modern derailleurs.  The plunger/spring at the left photo above controls the tension on the pulleys.  It can be adjusted by moving a tab which is inserted into the notches shown on the left side of the knurled nut, shown in the above left photo.  The inside spring which attaches to the arm of the derailleur controls the arm swing, shown in the above right photo.  It’s adjustment is controlled by loosening the screw on the outside of the arm and moving the spring’s hook up or down on the arm.

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The inside spring controls this movement.  There needs to be some flex here to handle the changes in the chain when the gear is changed.

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One thing you will learn, eventually if not right away, is that each wing nut is of a different proportion.  The drive side wing nut arms are positioned higher so that they will clear the derailleur.  You’ll need to completely remove the wing nut in order to get the rear wheel in position for mounting.

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Another thing you’ll need to know if you are working on a bike without its original parts is the cage swing capacity of the derailleur.  In this case, its swing capacity was for a 3 speed freewheel, and not the 4 speed freewheel that I wanted to use.

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Once set up, my methodology for adjusting this derailleur involved trial and error – shifting rapidly among the gears and checking to see how the chain tension was affected and how the derailleur performed.  If you are working on a bike without the original chain, you will have to guess at chain length, which these derailleurs are very sensitive to.  If you have the original chain – don’t mess around with the chain length – keep it exactly the same even though this seems counter-intuitive.

The derailleur has no limit screws.  However, the whole mechanism can be moved inward and outward from the freewheel by loosening the outer bolt and turning the derailleur inward or outward, then tightening again.  There isn’t a lot of adjustment here, but this adjustment mimics the limit screw adjustment on modern derailleurs.

Having set up a few of these now, I feel I am almost getting the hang of it!