Injured Cyclist

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No, I didn’t break my leg while cycling. Instead, my accident occurred in the most dangerous place on earth:  my own home. Statistics indicate that slip and fall injuries such as mine will most likely occur in your humble abode.  In fact, statistically speaking, you are actually much safer out on the road – whether on a bicycle, on foot, in a car, or on a motorcycle.

To recover from a broken bone in the lower leg, generally there are two phases:  non weight bearing while in a cast or air boot, and weight bearing while in a walking boot. The former is the most challenging phase of recovery, as the bone can only heal properly if it is not subjected to movement. That means one’s mobility becomes seriously impaired. In times past, crutches were the only mobility aid out there. Anyone who has used crutches knows just how difficult and exhausting they can be, and can subject you to further injury if you are unable to master them in zen-like upper body strength fashion. Fortunately, bicycle technology blended with medical know-how has come to the rescue.

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Here is a “knee scooter” – an ingenious little 4 wheeled contraption which incorporates many cycling related components. There are cable brakes, an aluminum frame, a 90 degree head tube, flat bars, brake levers with lock out, bottle and basket holders, and a folding steerer.  This particular model was made by NOVA – a long time manufacturer of various medical mobility devices.  There are lots of other competitors out there, but this is what was available for rent from my nearest medical equipment retailer.  The only significant complaint I have about the device is that the steerer doesn’t handle bumps very well, so will turn in full radius when it encounters even a small surface anomaly.

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Of course, this has nothing to do with the quality of the machine itself, but with the geometry of its design.  A 90 degree head tube was probably deemed necessary to provide maximum stability when standing at rest over the scooter.  If the wheels were given a caster angle, that would cause the wheels to have “trail”.  As designed, its wheels have no trail.  Trail provides for a kind of “self steering” which you don’t really even notice as you ride your bike – you find that your bike tends to right itself even if you give it the wrong inputs. Trail is a critical feature in motorcycle, automobile and bicycle design – without it our machines would be unstable as they attempt to navigate curves and surface anomalies.  Low trail bicycles are great for front end loads, since they also have less wheel flop, but all bicycles must have trail in order to be rideable.

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While recovering, I took time to bone up (I can’t help the puns…) on front end geometry.  While Bicycling Science, by David Gordon Wilson, is an excellent resource, I admit that I haven’t spent much time absorbing the physics and mechanics presented in his well written tome.  But now, I took the time to review his chapter on bicycle handling.  As it turns out, there’s a reason why no one can agree on what makes a bicycle handle well: since a bicycle can only balance on two wheels with a rider aboard, studying its dynamics are nearly impossible.  Consequently, theories of bicycle motion and self-stability have not been validated experimentally.  However, stable machines such as trikes and 4-wheelers can easily be studied, and one thing everyone knows is that a caster angle on the wheels is necessary for the vehicle to naturally right itself under movement.

So why isn’t this nifty little device designed with a bit of caster angle?  That would produce some trail, which would help to keep the little scooter stable as it goes over bumps.

After researching the current knee scooter models available, I have found that there are some higher end models which incorporate a caster angle on the wheels, but such models are not typically available for rent, but can be purchased for a hefty price.  If your injury is quite serious and requires a long recovery, I think it might be well worth it to purchase a higher end model which incorporates a caster angle.  This would allow greater safety and mobility, especially in outdoor situations.

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Meanwhile, I’m working on keeping my little scooter maintained.  The brake cables were poorly adjusted, and the bottle holder clamp needs a washer.  I’m sure I’ll find a few other mechanical shortcomings during my recovery.  Even so, these knee scooters provide a clear advantage over crutches in terms of safety and comfort.

Old School Touring

1985 Nashbar Toure MT

1985 Nashbar Toure MT

Of all the fads and trends in the cycling industry, the touring era that accompanied the 1976 BikeCentennial in the U.S. was probably the most positive.  While not everyone wants or needs a touring bike – a touring bike is a bike that can work well for all kinds of riding.  And, due to economic conditions during this era – favorable exchange rates for the Japanese yen and the oil crisis of the early 70’s – the U.S. market was flooded with low cost, high quality touring bikes in the mid 70’s to mid 80’s.  These bikes often survive intact, as they were quite well made to begin with, and were usually equipped with top of the line components.

Japanese brands like Centurion, Nishiki, Bridgestone, Fuji, Miyata, Panasonic, and Univega were among the most well known manufacturers to build high quality touring bicycles.  Raleigh, Peugeot, Trek, Specialized, Austro-Daimler, Gitane, Motobecane, Mercier, and others also joined in to build some of the nicest touring bikes ever mass produced.

These touring bikes of the late 70’s and early 80’s hold a special place in my heart.  Their excellent build quality and beautiful design represent freedom, exploration, and adventure.

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This lovely 1985 Nashbar Toure MT is a great example of the quality that could be had for a reasonable price.  The frame was built for Nashbar by Maruishi – a Japanese builder not as well known as others, but still producing a beautifully brazed machine of double butted cro-mo steel.  The gorgeous blue sparkle paint and well brazed seat cluster show off its quality.

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All the finish work is top notch.  This is a bike I would keep for myself if it were my size.

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Brazed on rack mounts

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Sealed Tange headset

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SunTour downtube shifters.

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SunTour sealed cartridge bearing bottom bracket with chain line adjuster on the drive side.

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Sealed cartridge bearing hubs. No maintenance required.

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Classic Blackburn bottle cage.

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2nd bottle cage mount underneath the downtube.

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Seat tube has no bottle cage braze-ons – left clean for mounting a frame pump.

There are so many nice features on this amazing bike that it’s hard to list them all.  One reason that the bike is so pristine, however, is because long ago the SunTour Mountech rear derailleur had failed, and the bike was put away, thankfully in a dry, clean space.

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So, I replaced the rear derailleur with a Shimano 600 long cage mechanism from the same era.  It works perfectly with the original 100% SunTour drivetrain.

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Triple crank with half step gearing.

This bike was built in the days of gear shifting pattern obsession.  Half step gearing was a way to have a routine shifting pattern that would maintain cadence as the terrain changed.  In practice, at least for me, I prefer not having to constantly double shift, so I am not enamored with half step gearing and have, when confronted with it, replaced the large middle chain ring with something smaller, such as a 40 or 42.  But, some riders love half-step gearing and more power to them (pun intended).

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Araya 27 Inch rims.

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Nashbar logo on the downtube.

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Sealed cartridge bearing hubs, Suntour freewheel.

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SunTour Mountech front derailleur

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SunTour chromed forged dropouts with single eyelets on the rear.

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Powerful Dia Compe cantilevers.

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Lowrider fork mounts.

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SunTour sealed cartridge bearing bottom bracket with chain line adjuster on the drive side.

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Beautifully machined BB shell.

It would be tough to find a similarly engineered touring bike with these quality components, for a price that even remotely comes close to what you can buy this bike for now.  One problem is that most cyclists associate Nashbar with low end liquidation components, rather than any kind of quality.  But, back in the 1980’s, the arrival of the Nashbar mail order catalog was an exciting event.  I ordered many wonderful and interesting components for my old 1976 Centurion from Nashbar back then.  Today, however, the company is known for its discounted and discontinued parts, rather than for quality bicycles, for better or for worse.

This wonderful old touring machine is going to a friend’s stable in Southern Oregon, where I know it will be ridden and appreciated.  I hope to join him and his spouse on some wonderful rides through Southern Oregon wine country, and I will be a bit jealous his bike.2016-09-13-001

 

More Than Eye Candy

1973 Jack Taylor

Drooling over gorgeous vintage bicycles is one thing, but appreciating their enduring ride quality is another thing altogether.  This 1973 Jack Taylor Tourist has been with me for over eight years, and while I rode it quite a bit initially, I eventually set it aside.  The bike is larger than my usual size, and I did not adequately assess the lack of comfort associated with a 55 cm top tube length, given that I normally ride a 51.

Adding to that are the big 27 inch wheels and 29 cm bottom bracket height.  Throwing a leg over this bike is like mounting one’s 16 hand steed for a ride in the country side.  However, the very tall riding position is great for commuting.  It puts your head up above the fray and helps make you more visible to the car driving masses.  So, in order to enjoy this bike I needed to make some ergonomic changes.  Back to the drawing board.

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I needed to bring the bars closer to me. The tall Nitto Technomic stem came to the rescue.  Drop bars or mustache bars would push my arms out too far for this top tube length, so I located a vintage city style bar that had the right clamp size for the Nitto Stem.  I used Velo Orange levers to complete the vintage look.  Even though new, they are quite a bit more sturdy than the Weinmann and DiaCompe flat bar levers made in the 70’s.  Their only downside is that the levers sit out pretty far from the bar, so they are not the best choice for smaller hands.  I couldn’t resist using some bright yellow Benotto bar tape, which when wrapped three times over fit perfectly on the grip side of the bars, and which brings out the bike’s vibrant yellow highlights.

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This bike is unique in many ways, and one of them is the rear wheel which features this Sachs-Fitchel 2 speed Orbit hub.  The internally geared hub takes the place of a front derailleur and extra chain ring.  I had sent the hub out for a rebuild 8 years ago, not daring to do it myself at the time.  It still feels smooth, so I resisted the very faint urge to tear it down.  The internal gears can be lubricated by removing the spindle and squirting in a bit of automotive oil.  Easily done.  The spindle broke apart a number of years ago, so I did my own repair job using a tiny brad which I banged into the chain links.  The repaired link is slightly bigger than it should be, but hasn’t caused any problems.  One of the nice things about this gearing arrangement is being able to shift to a lower gear when stopped.  That’s not something you can do with a 100% derailleur equipped bicycle.

Whenever a bike sits for a while, all kinds of things go wrong.  Grease congeals, one kind of metal fuses itself to another kind of metal, bearings embed themselves into their cups and cones, and rust seems to form everywhere.

So, there were lots of other issues to address:  pitted bottom bracket cups, which I replaced with an exact and pristine match that I happened to have in stock; broken wiring for the sidewall driven Soubitez dynamo; and various rusted areas on the frame which needed to be sanded and then painted (I use clear Testor’s paint).  I had considered replacing the dynamo with something newer, but it is actually working just fine, and I can use it as a back up to my battery powered light if needed.  (P.S. I hate dynamos).

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Soubitez dynamo headlight is working!

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Testor’s Paints – I use clear paint for touch ups.

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Inelegant wire routing. Oh well.

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Perfect for commuting – Lyotard pedals with reflectors and cage tabs to keep your shoe in place.

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Frame touch up – sanded and painted.

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Very tight clearance due to low tread Stronglight 99 crankset.

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IRC Road Winner 27 x 1 1/4 tires

I really like these IRC 27 x 1 1/4 inch tires.  I purchased them eight years ago and unfortunately, they can no longer be found.  Not not only do they have a nice appearance, the sidewalls are very supple and the ride quality is even better than the much beloved Panaracer Pasela’s I have ridden.  I hope to ride these tire until the bitter end, and replace them only when absolutely necessary.  One issue with these older rims is that they cannot tolerate high pressures, due to their design.  So, I have blown these tires off the rim more than a few times.  Finally, I have settled on 70 psi in the rear and 65 psi in the front, and have had no blow outs since.

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In addition to rebuilding the pedals, front hub, and bottom bracket, I also replaced the straddle cables for the Mafac Cantilever brakes.  The brakes, while very powerful, are noisy under hard braking, partly because I am using these Kool Stop pads which not only don’t allow for toe-in, they seem to provide for the opposite of toe-in.  Even so, I would rather have these strong and reliable cantilevers for commuting in Portland.

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And finally, I sourced an exact match for the taillight with the broken reflector. I kind of miss the look of the bare bulb, though.

Now it’s time to get back out on this bike into this Fall’s windy, rainy weather and ride the leaf strewn avenues of Portland – hopefully in comfort!