A 1940’s/50’s Mercier Meca Dural

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This French Mercier bicycle has captured my attention.  It is made from “duralumin“ – the same stuff blimps were made with – by Meca Dural using a unique procedure to join the tubes with aluminum lugs and wedged steel internal expanders.  The Meca Dural company produced aluminum frames from the 1930’s through the 1950’s on behalf of a number of cycling manufacturers, Mercier being one of them.  A Mercier Meca Dural is included in the Embacher collection (which was sold in its entirety at auction, earlier this year).  The blackbirdsf site also has photos of a variety of duralumin frames of various manufacturers, including Aviac and Barra, as well as Meca Dural.

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This Mercier Meca Dural is a “ladies” bike with a step through frame, although it is not a mixte frame as it lacks the set of extra chain stays typically used to stiffen the frame.  Depending on many factors, this may or may not be a good thing.

The bike features a Stronglight crankset with 46 teeth, CLB 700 brakes with useful and ingenious quick release mechanism, Atom hubs, Samir Saminox 700c rims, Huret plunger/pushrod derailleur, a 4 speed freewheel, and a serial number on the left side rear drop out – 16822.  Here are some photos of the components:

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Huret derailleur with plunger/pull chain mechanism – for 4 speed freewheel.

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Stronglight 49D crankset

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Tank pedals

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Atom hub with Huret wingnuts

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Very nice CLB 700 brakes

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Mercier headbadge, with upper round Meca Dural headbadge missing

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Crankset lettering – Louis Verot chainring with 46 teeth, bottom bracket connector bolt

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Rear drop out with SN 16822

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Beautiful lug design which includes cable routing braze-ons

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Ideale Leather Saddle, Model 80

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Alloy porteur bars, CLB Guidonnet levers, Sufficit grips, Luxor headlamp, Dural Azur stem

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Luxor 65 headlamp

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Samir Saminox 700c steel rims

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Bottom bracket lug, joined below with bolts

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Hammered Le Martele Lefol fenders, hammered rear lamp.

Mercier fork

Steel fork with lugged chrome fork crown, amateur paint job, Stronglight headset

The bike has a number of issues which will affect the restoration process.  The steel fork was horrifically spray painted gray  – so the paint will need to be removed.  Upon closer examination, I have concluded that the wheels are not original to the frame.  There is a 1975 date code on the Atom hub, and not only that, their diameter suggests that this bike was built for 650b wheels and not 700c – the fork crown and rear brake bridge daruma bolts foul the 700c tires.  Clearly the bike was built for 650b wheels, which I confirmed after measuring the CLB 700 brake reach.  And, some features are missing –  the fenders show that the bike originally had a rear and front rack, and the fork mount dynamo is absent, as well as the original chain guard.

Even so, I am looking forward to restoring this machine and to its first test ride, as I want to experience the feel of the aluminum frame and steel lugs, and to judge the frame stiffness for myself.  Stay tuned!

Photo-Cyclist

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Like many bloggers, I have other interests aside from my passion for vintage bicycles (shock!).  Photography has always been an avocation for me.  I was introduced, early on, to my father’s 1953 Leica IIIf camera, and since then, have nurtured my passion for film and digital photography.  At one point, before the digital revolution, I housed a darkroom in a spare bathroom.  But, those days are gone.

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Photographing bicycles, however, is a very difficult task.  Visually speaking, bicycles are nothing more than narrow tubes and shiny parts.  They are hard to photograph, and especially difficult to capture in natural settings without the aid of studio lighting.  In bright sunlight, the metal parts will send photons into a camera’s light meter, and throw off your exposure.  And, visually conveying the shape of the bicycle’s frame and individual components usually means using a very open lens aperture for close up shots, to limit the depth of field to the image you want to portray, as in the photo above.

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For most of the photographs on this site, I have used a Leica Digilux 2, which is now over 10 years old and therefore considered obsolete in the world of digital photography.  Nonetheless, it still has a loyal following as an “affordable” Leica, made so by the existence of its fixed, non interchangeable Summicron lens.  But, what a good lens it is, with a 28-90mm focal length and an aperture which opens up to f 2.  If you have used film rangefinder cameras, it’s hard to go back to the slow acting shutter of an SLR.  Film rangefinders have notoriously excellent focusing capability, so long as you adjust for parallax when using long lenses.  The Leica Digilux 2 has a frustrating manual focus, but I prefer to use it over the unreliable autofocus found in this early technology camera.  And, of course, this camera is too big and bulky to safely bring with me on a bike ride, so my iPhone camera has had to suffice for on the road photos.  Hence, I have pined for a smaller rangefinder camera that would satisfy my artistic senses and at the same time be affordable and reasonably portable.

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After doing some research, I became convinced that I needed this Panasonic Lumix G rangefinder (Model DMC-GM1K).  It is tiny, pretty, and was made to look and feel like a Leica, with its quirky manual dials, and sexy black and silver case.

It comes standard with a 12-32 mm (equivalent to a 24-64 mm lens for a 35 mm camera) f3.5 lens, pictured first, above, and with its 4/3 size, there are many other lens options available.  I also purchased the Olympus M.Zuiko 45 mm (equivalent to a 90 mm lens for a 35 mm camera) f1.8 lens, after reading some reviews, which is pictured second.   Amazingly, this camera can also accept Leica lenses by using an optional adapter.

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You can see just how small it really is – it fits easily into the palm of my hand.  The only downside to its tiny size is the equally paltry-sized dials which are too easy to accidentally press when handling the camera.  It also does not have a viewfinder, but the quality of the LED screen and the ability to add a manual focus aid to the set up made it relatively effortless to use right out of the box.  It is very light and feels delicate, so when I do take it with my on my bike travels, I will be carefully packing it to insure that it is protected from road shock.

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Toward that end, I purchased an accessory case which will help to protect it when in use, which is also very Leica-like, as the top piece can be unsnapped and removed, but with the body still in its case.

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All of the images in this post were taken with the new camera, except those of the camera itself (taken with the Leica), and the photo of both cameras together (taken with the iPhone). And, while there is much to learn and master with this new little camera, I have a feeling that the Lumix G might become the main camera I use for just about everything.  It’s got Wi-Fi connectivity, and too many features to fathom. With today’s miserable weather (the Portland rains have begun), I seem to now have no choice but to actually read the owner’s manual.

Park PCS-9 Portable Mechanic Stand – a Quick Review

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I needed a portable work stand that I could both stow in my shop as an extra stand, and take with me on the road.  As far as portable stands go, I had only previously used the Feedback Sports Pro-Elite Stand at another shop, and while I was impressed with the ease of use of its unique clamp and its light weight, I kept tripping over its tripod base, so I knew I wanted a stand with legs sitting flat on the floor.

I turned to the Park PCS-9 stand, not only attracted by its low price, but because it offered reasonable portability, and well, it’s a Park product so I assumed it would be a high quality item given their stellar reputation.

The company’s product description for the PCS-9 indicates that the stand can hold up to 80 lbs. and its adjustable clamp allows you to clamp all kinds of tubing sizes – up to 3 inches in diameter and down to 7/8 inches.  With its simple 4 metal tubes it folds down to 41 inches in length.

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It took no time at all to assemble the stand.  In use, the low price point became obvious right away.   While it’s very nice to have the fully adjustable clamp, the sleeve in which it rotates consists of a fluted tube, with a molded plastic insert on the clamp side.  To rotate the clamp, you release the tension at the back on the top tube, turn the clamp and then tighten everything back down.

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That’s all fine and good, but if you need to work on even a normal weight bike, the force necessary to keep the clamp from moving under gravity will cause the molded plastic insert to embed itself into the fluted portion of the tube, and then the clamp cannot be moved at all, even with brute force.  This part of the mechanism really needs some kind of bushing or sleeve, to allow the clamp to rotate freely.  So, after tapping out the molded plastic piece several times, which required disassembly of the clamp, I lubricated the pieces with some chain oil, which has helped for now.

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The height adjustment sleeve has no quick release mechanism, so it is necessary to grab a hand tool every time you want to change the height.

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Portability is achieved by these freely swinging base legs, combined with the collapsible vertical tubes which allow for the stand to be quickly folded.  When folded for transport, the legs flop around unless you secure them.  As it turns out, a pant leg strap works perfectly for this task.

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Whoopsie!

However, if the stand is sitting empty, or with something light like a bike frame, it is very easy to bump the stand over, as the horizontal legs are held in place only by gravity.  Really, Park should have engineered some pins to keep these legs in place while the stand is in use.  I can remedy the problem by drilling some holes and inserting pins myself, which eventually I will probably do.  I will also rig up a quick release for the height adjustment clamp, and contemplate further what to do about the non-freely rotating clamp.

For it’s price point – about $140 – you might say that you get what you pay for.  On the other hand, I think it would be easy to address these problems during manufacturing, which would probably add at most only $25 to the price.  That would still make it highly price competitive with other similar products.  In its current state, I would hate to recommend it to anyone but an experienced mechanic who can work around its shortcomings.